Himaláje 2001 – Island Peak 6189m, Mera Peak 6654m
Nechcem o Himalájách písať chronologicky deň za dňom. Chcem sa znovu dotknúť niektorých spomienok, ktoré mi natrvalo utkveli v pamäti.
Ako by som popísal Himaláje? Keď som uvidel prvý kopec zblízka, nevedel som či je to oblak alebo vrchol. Nevedel som pochopiť, že musím mať až tak vyklonenú hlavu dohora. A to nebol Everest. Ten ma prekvapil najviac …
Na Kala Patar 5554 m sme vystúpili po nočnom snežení do hmly alebo nízkej oblačnosti, ktorá nás sprevádzala v predošlé dni. Dlho sme čakali, neveriac tomu, že sme prišli až takto blízko k najvyššej hore sveta a neuvidíme ju. Niektorí začali zostupovať dolu. Ja, ani neviem prečo, som začal vystupovať hore nad Kala Patar. Až do najvyššieho bodu. Tu som sa otočil v nádeji, či sa nestal nejaký zázrak a z pohľadu, ktorý sa mi naskytol, sa mi podlomili kolená. Žiadny sprostredkovaný obraz nevyjadrí silu bezprostredného kontaktu s týmto obrom. Koľkokrát som čítal o tejto hore a zrazu tu stojím a nechcem veriť vlastným očiam. Zúrivo filmujem v obave, že obraz zmizne v hmle. Opak je pravdou. Hmla mizne z obrazu a onedlho sa nám i okolité končiare ukazujú v celej svojej kráse. Zvlášť Nupce nás z tohoto miesta fascinuje svojimi krivkami.
Po asi hodinovom predstavení začne hmla znovu pribúdať. Nepriaznivé počasie, akoby dozvuky monzúnu, sa láme 5. októbra. Sneží celý deň i celú noc. Uviazli sme v Chukhungu 4730 m, pol dňa cesty pred základným táborom pod Island Peakom. Harmonogram pobytu máme napnutý a každý stratený deň nám prehlbuje vrásky na čele. Po snežení však prichádza pravá himalájska jeseň. Hore je však meter nového snehu. Nevidno trhliny na ľadovci, ani cestu medzi nimi. Tri hodiny prekonávame širokú trhlinu, ktorá sa určite dá obísť. Ale kadiaľ?
Sme už 8 hodín na ceste zo základného tábora, keď sa na poludnie dostaneme pod vrcholovú stenu Island Peaku. Aby sme sa vyhli postupu po hrebeni, namierime si to priamo na vrchol. Síl už riadne ubudlo, slnko nemilosrdne páli a pred nami je 200 metrov 60 stupňového svahu. V polovici svahu spúšťame v poradí tretiu lavínu, ktorá prekazí snahu šerpského vodcu prebiť sa do čela postupujúcej skupiny a posunie ho asi o 50 metrov nižšie. Všetci uznáme, že dnes to nepôjde a 100 metrov pod vrcholom sa rozhodneme vrátiť. Väčšina sa tak rozhodla už predtým.
O dva dni sme znovu pod vrcholovou stenou. Práve svitá. Maroš natiahne 100-metrový fix a upevní ho na hrebeni. Pomaly sa "súkame" hore. V týchto výškach sa dýcha už ťažko, ale máme dosť času, lebo sme si privstali a počasie "drží". Fixujeme i ďalšie kritické miesto na hrebeni, ktorým je asi 20 metrov dlhý výšvih so sklonom 65 – 70 stupňov. Radosť na vrchole je obrovská. A tie výhľady. Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Makalu, …
S nami sa teší skupina štyroch Španielov. Sú tu na aklimatizačnom výstupe pred výstupom na Pumori. O niekoľko dní pred odchodom z Kathmándu dvoch z nich stretneme. So žiaľom nám oznámia, že pod lavínou na Pumori ostali piati ich priatelia z toho aj dvaja z vrcholu Island Peaku. Dlho sa z toho spamätávame.
Na Mera Peak sa rozhodneme vystúpiť cez sedlo Zarwa, čo znamená vrátiť sa do Lukly, potom 2 km hore do sedla, 1 km dolu do doliny Hinku a , potom už len zhruba 3 km hore na vrchol. Táto dolina je však o inom. Strmo neprístupná, drsná a studená. Žiadne jaky, žiadne lodže. Jediná osada je Tangnang s fascinujúcimi "Eigrami" okolo. Pérovú vetrovku takmer nevyzlečiem.
Základný tábor postavíme na posledných skalách pod ľadovcom vo výške 5150 m. O polnoci vstávajú prví a pred druhou sme už na ceste. Je -20°C a vietor zosilňuje. Lapajúc po dychu sa prebíjame hore. Ruky aj nohy mám "drevené" od zimy a slnko nie a nie výjsť. Mesiac je v nove a hviezdy toho veľa nenasvietia. Keď sa slnko konečne ukáže, sme už s Janom tesne pod vrcholom. Na vrchole sa pre nárazy vetra nedá vydržať. Počkáme, kým to slnko utíši a zohreje a tešíme sa na vrchole z dosiahnutého cieľa, ktorý sa často zdal veľmi, veľmi vzdialený. Stačil jeden stratený deň. Panoráma okolitých vrcholov je neopísateľná. Kam až oko dovidí samá nádhera. "Deň ako z rozprávky". V zostupe sa zastavím pri prvých skalách. Čaká tam na mňa krásne tvarovaný kremeň s plátkom tmavošedej sľudy. Váži dobré kilo, ale čo by som neuniesol pre radosť vnučky Nikolky.
Pod sedlom Zarwa sa zastavíme pri pastierskom prístrešku, ktorý sa hrdo nazýva Yak Lodge. Cestou pod horu som ho filmoval ako špinavú dieru, do ktorej by som nevstúpil. Teraz sa tu kŕmim pripálenou ryžou a polosurovými zemiakmi. Zásoby sa nám minuli o niečo skôr. Ráno je
-12°C a stan je zapadnutý snehom. Nechcem ani čaj, len čím skôr byť v Lukle a potvrdiť letenky platné na zajtra.
O 5 hodín som na letisku a začínam vychutnávať prvé dotyky s civilizáciou.
Niekoľko rád na záver:
Kalkulácia akcie v platná v jeseni 2001 na osobu v 11-člennej skupine
- a) letenka Schwechat – Kathmándu a späť $730
- b) letenka Kathmándu – Lukla a späť $182
- c) vstup do parku Sagarmantha $15
- d) vstupné víza do Nepálu $30
- e) povolenie pre výstup na 6-tisícovku $350 pre 1-4 osoby a $40 pre každú ďalšiu osobu
- f) ubytovanie v Kathmándu osoba/noc $4
- g) nosič (náklad 25 – 30 kg) za deň $5
- h) ubytovanie v lodži ( pri stravovaní) $1
- i) polpenzia v lodži cca $6-$8
- j) sirdar $21
- k) nadváha pri lete do Lukly (nad 15 kg) $0.7/kg
Je vhodné mať kontakt (cestovnú kanceláriu) v Kathmándu. Naším kontaktom bol pán Nirmal Shrestha.
Nirmal Shrestha
Trekking International
GPO Box 4431
Pink House
Bansbari
Kathmandu
Nepal
email: or
http://www.trekkinginternational.com
Vybavil nám letenky do Lukly, pomohol prejsť cez letisko, minimalizoval nadváhu, vybavil povolenia, sirdara, ubytovanie v Kathmándu a radil nám pri riešení ďalších problémov. Chcel za to $50/osobu. Pre prípadný zásah vrtuľníka je potrebné byť dobre poistený (my sme vstúpili do Alpenverein) a zložiť kauciu $4000.
V celom Nepále je voľná tvorba cien a ponuka tovaru a služieb často výrazne prevyšuje dopyt. O cene sa oplatí húževnato vyjednávať. Je vhodné nájsť a navštíviť niektorý z mála štátnych obchodov, kde sú cenovky, aby sa nám ľahšie orientovalo.
Fotogalérie:
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IMJA TSE (Island Peak)
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